What are Salt and Pepper Diamonds?

The Ondine engagement ring, set with a round salt and pepper diamond.

Over the past few years salt and pepper diamonds have grown in popularity, they are now one of the gemstones I work with most often, and some are the centrepiece in some of my most popular engagement rings. But what are they and what gives them such a unique beauty?

How Do Salt and Pepper Diamonds Differ From White Diamonds?

Salt and Pepper diamonds are formed like any other diamond, deep in the earths mantle. During this process extreme pressure and heat can cause small internal flaws in the diamonds known as inclusions, and the presence of minerals, gases or radiation can add colour to the stones.
High quality white diamonds which are traditionally the most sought after have an absence of any colour, and very few small inclusions. To learn more about what makes white diamonds so special and how they are graded view my guide to the 4Cs.

However more and more of us are now drawn to unique stones, whose inclusions crackles and colour variations should be celebrated for their beauty rather than seen only as imperfections.

How Did they Get Their Name?

Salt and Pepper diamonds are named because of highly visible white (salt) and black (pepper) inclusions, no two stones will have the same unique markings. There is a huge variety to the patterns, from speckled to swirling cloud like formations.
Because of all these inclusions they don’t have the bright sparkle of a white diamond, and this contrast means the two styles compliment one another when worn side by side, for instance two smaller white diamonds either side of a larger salt and pepper..

What Do they Cost?

Nicknames such as salt and pepper, rustic, natural and rough are applied to diamonds that contain a high proportion of one of a kind natural flaws, with colours ranging from light grey to dusky pink to terracotta reds. As they are not as rare as the traditional white diamonds these heavily included stones are more affordable, so you can choose a bigger stone for your budget. As I describe in the blog post about grading white diamonds there are many different factors that effect a white diamonds value, Salt and pepper diamonds are not graded on colour in the same way, but the skill with which the stone has been cut does effect price. So its impossible to give a direct comparison. However for designs with larger “statement” stones, top quality white diamonds can cost tens of thousands of pounds. A Rustic diamond whilst still valuable can be a fraction of this total.

I would always advise choosing a gemstone for qualities such as colour and shape, rather than placing more importance on size alone

Alternative Engagement Rings

The growing popularity of alternative salt and pepper diamond engagement rings represents a new interpretation of love and beauty. One that places more value on individual and unique qualities. Making them the (Im)perfect symbol of a modern romance.

What are the choices for Mens wedding rings

Mens wedding rings

Guys If you have just begun to look for a wedding ring or civil partnership bands and are a bit lost with what is best for you or just with the idea of wearing jewellery in general, this guide will quickly run through the basics to start you off on your search. We will also give a little more info on unique or bespoke designs for those a bit further down the line, to show that although when it comes to wedding jewellery many think of the bride there are plenty of choices for grooms as well!

Before you start you can view our range of wedding rings. And for help finding your finger size view our printable Ring sizing chart.
 

Choosing The Metal

Our choice of metal is often quite instinctive. It could be the traditional colour of yellow gold that you are drawn to, alternatively we really like natural un plated white gold whilst the copper tones of rose gold are becoming increasingly popular with guys. For others it may be the metals properties that resonate, for instance the strength and durability of Platinum make it a great choice for a ring you will wear everyday.

Many couples choose to have their rings made in the same precious metal creating a nice link between a pair of bands even if the designs are very different.

If you like to keep your colours matching one point to keep in mind is this is something you will be wearing everyday, if you wear a watch or other pieces of jewellery such as cufflinks or think you may do in the future consider what colour these will be and if they go with your ring.

You can find out more in our Guide to precious metals

Deceiding on Shape

The most common rings a man will be shown when he first walks into a jewellers are Court, D Shape and Flat. These classic profiles only differ slightly but having decided on the width and depth of the band and whether to go for a polished or matt finish they can work with a surprisingly wide range of personal styles. All three are popular because they are simple and understated which is what many men want.

Court shape rings have a domed outer and slightly curved inner with straight sides. The rounded inside makes for a comfortable fit with a luxurious weighty feel.

D-shapes are named simply because their profile is that of a capital D on its side. These bands have a classic curved outer whilst the flat inside means the ring is not quite as heavy as a court and keeps the band a bit flatter to the finger

Flat Bands are the first port of call for those looking for a clean modern look. The flat surface area can also be used to show off texturing. Our flat bands have a curved inside for comfort.

As with the choice of metal a visual link can be made between partners bands by choosing the same ring profile even if widths are not the same.

Alternative mens wedding rings

There is no need to feel constrained by tradition many men want something unique that represents their personality.
Often the only way to achieve this is to commission a bespoke design. One off pieces may seem intimidatingly expensive but it doesn't have to blow your budget. A quick chat with a jeweller can determine what kind of materials and processes would be needed to achieve your ideas and budget. Our Bespoke page has more information.

This bespoke textured wedding ring was made using an oversized 9ct white gold band. The marks were created with a specially made punch.

These matching bands are cast from the same unique mould.

Diamonds: A Guide To The 4 Cs

What are the 4Cs? 

Choosing a diamond for an engagement ring or bespoke piece of jewellery can be a little daunting and there is a lot of confusing information out there. This quick guide will give you a simple understanding of how a diamond is valued/graded so you can choose that all important stone with confidence.

Diamonds are the hardest naturally occurring material known to man, the name originates from the Greek word Adamus meaning unconquerable. Created deep within the earth over 1 to 3 billion years ago each diamond is unique and there are many factors to consider when valuing each one. To determine a stones quality jewellers use what is known as the 4Cs, an internationally recognised grading system that accurately measures Cut, Carat, Colour and Clarity. 

Here is our low down on the 4Cs. 

Diamond Cut

Of all the 4 Cs the Cut can have the greatest influence on a stones quality. The cut refers to the shape of the diamond but is graded on how well proportioned the stone is. It is the job of a skilled stone cutter called a lapidary to take a rough mined diamond and precisely shape and polish it into a beautiful gemstone.

How symmetrical the stone is cut determines how well its facets interact with the light. As light travels into the stone it is bounced from facet to facet and reflected back out of the stone which creates the flashes and sparkles diamonds are famous for. 

The most popular shape is the round brilliant cut which has 58 facets and is designed for maximum sparkle, other shapes such as ascher or emerald are cut to play with the light differently and allow you to see further into the stone.

Diamond Carat

A diamonds weight is measured in Carats, one carat is the equivalent of 0.2 grams, or a 1 carat round stone would be roughly 6.4mm. A carat can be sub divided into a hundred points, so even very small stones can be weighed. When viewing diamonds a jeweller may describe a stone below 1 carat by its points alone so a 0.30 carat diamond would be called a thirty pointer.

Larger stones are rarer and it can be a natural instinct to go for the biggest stone however it is a combination of all of the 4 Cs that determines a diamonds value.

Diamond Colour

Most diamonds are graded on a colour scale from D - Z, D being the most valuable because it is completely absent of colour which enhances the crisp pure characteristics of the stone. The amount of colour present increases very gradually through the scale and the subtleties in colour between two grades can be impossible see to the untrained eye.

Naturally occurring coloured diamonds known as Fancies are found in pink, green, blue, brown, champagne and yellow but are very rare. Rather than being graded on the absence of colour they are graded on the intensity of their colour. I particularly like brown and champagne diamonds which compliment gold or platinum beautifully.

 

Diamond Clarity

A Diamond is formed deep within the earth when Carbon is exposed to extreme heat and preassure. This natural process means characteristics called inclusions (internal flaws) or blemishes (external marks) are present within the stone.

A diamonds clarity in measured when viewed under 10 x magnification, how many inclusions can be seen, their size and position all affect its clarity rating. All diamonds contain flaws but a diamond whose inclusions are to small to see under magnification is considered flawless and is extremely rare.
 

Gaining a little understanding of the 4 Cs can be very helpful but it’s important not to get too hung up on any one characteristic, finding the best balance between all four that your budget will allow will result in a great stone.

And if white diamonds are not for you, take a look at our guide to their rustic counterparts, What are Salt and Pepper diamonds?

You can find more information on commissioning a hand crafted piece from us on our bespoke page.

A Guide to Precious Metals

Choosing The Right Metal For You

Precious metals are the most beautiful choice for jewellery due to their colour and versatility.

If you’re thinking of buying an engagement ring, commissioning a bespoke piece of jewellery or want one of our existing designs made in a different metal this quick guide will take you through the range of possible precious metals to choose from and give a little info on the characteristics of each metal. 

Yellow Gold

Gold has a heritage unrivalled by any other metal and is still the most popular choice for wedding and engagement rings today.

Golds natural colour is a vibrant yellow, pure 24 carat gold is too soft to be used for jewellery so it is alloyed or mixed with other metals to strengthen it. The amount of gold present will also affect the colour and weight of the finished piece. In the UK we mainly make gold jewellery in 9 and 18 carat. 18 carat is 75% pure gold mixed with other metals which perfectly combines the beautiful gold colour with enough strength to stand the test of everyday life. The metal alloys can also be chosen for their colour which is what enables us to create jewellery in rose gold and white gold.

Rose gold

Rose gold gets is beautiful pink tone from the presence of copper as an alloy. The warmth of rose gold looks stunning against all skin tones whether a matt finish or polished to a high shine. Rose gold is the perfect compliment to white diamonds and can give a simple design a vintage twist.
It is also becoming more and more popular with guys, the subtle copper tones referencing an industrial aesthetic.      

White gold

White gold naturally has a warm almost champagne tone from the mixing of yellow gold with palladium, which we think is perfect as it is. A lot of jewellers will rhodium plate white gold to give it a brilliant white shine but we prefer to keep things natural. The understated elegance of white gold works brilliantly with champagne diamonds and other coloured stones. 

Platinum 

Platinum is very pure, it is composed of 95% platinum mixed with iridium, ruthenium and palladium which makes it an incredibly dense, strong metal, perfect to set stones safely in delicate settings. Its natural white colour also compliments white diamonds for a simple chic look.

Silver

We use sterling silver which is hallmarked 925 this means 92.5% is pure silver mixed with 7.5% of other metals usually copper to strengthen the metal whilst keeping the beautiful colour. Silver is a lovely material to work with for its versatility. However silver should not be used to set expensive stones for this very reason, its softness means that it can be easily damaged which can lead to the setting becoming loose.  

Deciding between these beautiful materials can be an exciting choice as each one will give the same design a very personal look and feel. If you’re searching for an engagement ring or special piece of jewellery check out our bespoke jewellery page and our guide to diamonds.